City of Mandawa

Set in the heart of the Shekhawati region, north of Jaipur, Mandawa is often described as an open-air art gallery, and the comparison is well earned. This sleepy market town was once a thriving trading post on the caravan routes, and the wealth of its merchant families is written all over its walls.

The great draw here is the havelis, the grand merchant mansions whose facades, courtyards and ceilings are covered in vivid frescoes. Painted in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, these murals depict everything from Hindu deities and local legends to early motor cars, trains and aeroplanes, a charming record of a world opening up to new ideas. Wandering the lanes from one haveli to the next is a delight in itself.

Mandawa retains an unhurried, small-town character. Camel carts still trundle past, artisans work in modest shops and the rhythms of rural Rajasthan carry on much as they have for generations. Local Marwari cuisine, hearty and richly spiced, is best sampled in one of the heritage hotels that now occupy restored mansions.

Staying overnight in a converted haveli is part of the magic, allowing you to explore in the soft light of early morning and evening when the frescoes glow and the streets are quiet. It makes a wonderful stop on the road between Delhi or Jaipur and the desert cities further west.

We include Mandawa because it offers something quite different from Rajasthan's mighty forts: an intimate, atmospheric immersion in the artistry and trading history of Shekhawati. For lovers of art, architecture and slow travel, it is a quietly captivating gem.