City of Deshnoke

A short drive south of Bikaner, in the dusty plains of northern Rajasthan, the small town of Deshnoke guards one of India's most unusual and talked-about shrines. It is a place that intrigues, charms and occasionally astonishes first-time visitors, and it leaves no one indifferent.

The Karni Mata temple is famous the world over as the 'rat temple'. Thousands of black rats, known here as kabas, scurry freely across its marble floors and are revered as sacred. According to local belief they are the reincarnated devotees of Karni Mata, a revered fourteenth-century mystic, and they are cared for with genuine affection. Spotting one of the rare white rats is considered especially auspicious.

Far from being merely curious, the temple is a living centre of faith. Pilgrims arrive in steady numbers, offering sweets and milk, walking barefoot among the creatures and treating them with warmth rather than alarm. The intricately carved marble facade, silver doors and devotional energy make it a striking example of folk religion in action.

A visit here is brief but unforgettable, and it pairs naturally with time in nearby Bikaner. We always prepare guests gently for the experience; many arrive hesitant and leave fascinated by the devotion and the singular atmosphere they have witnessed.

We include Deshnoke because it reveals a side of Rajasthan that lies far beyond the usual forts and palaces. For travellers drawn to authentic, off-the-beaten-track encounters and the rich tapestry of Indian belief, it is a genuinely one-of-a-kind highlight.