City of Guwahati

Spread along the broad, silvered sweep of the mighty Brahmaputra, Guwahati is the bustling gateway to all of Northeast India and the largest city in the region. It is here that most journeys into the seven sister states begin, where the rhythms of Assam first reveal themselves and where ancient temples sit comfortably beside a lively, growing metropolis.

The city's spiritual heart is the celebrated Kamakhya Temple, perched atop the Nilachal Hill and revered as one of the most important shakti shrines in the subcontinent. Below it, the riverfront draws visitors at dusk, while a short boat crossing reaches Umananda, said to be among the smallest inhabited river islands in the world, crowned by a quiet Shiva temple.

The surrounding landscape is one of water and green hills, with the Brahmaputra defining the city's mood and light. River cruises glide past sandbars and fishing boats, and on clear evenings the far bank dissolves into mist. The markets brim with Assamese silk, brass craft and the warm hospitality for which the state is known.

A visit here is best savoured slowly, perhaps over a cup of fragrant Assam tea, watching cargo ferries drift by and pilgrims climb towards Kamakhya. The blend of devotion, commerce and riverine calm gives Guwahati a character quite unlike anywhere else in India.

We include Guwahati on every Northeast itinerary because it is the natural launch point for the region, with excellent connections towards Kaziranga, Shillong and beyond. It offers travellers a gentle, atmospheric introduction to Assamese culture before the journey climbs into the hills and high mountains that lie ahead.