City of Amritsar

Amritsar is the spiritual and cultural heart of Punjab, a warm, big-hearted city whose name means "pool of nectar". Founded around the sacred tank that surrounds its most famous shrine, it has grown into a place of deep devotion, robust food and irrepressible hospitality. Visitors arrive expecting a single landmark and leave having fallen for the whole city's generous spirit.

The Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib, is the defining experience. Its gilded sanctum, mirrored in still water and reached by a marble causeway, draws pilgrims from across the world. Equally moving is the langar, the vast community kitchen that serves a free meal to everyone, regardless of faith or background, where guests are welcome to help roll chapatis alongside volunteers.

Close by lies Jallianwala Bagh, the memorial garden that recalls a sombre chapter of India's struggle for independence, a quiet, reflective counterpoint to the temple's serenity. In the evening, a short drive away, the theatrical Wagah border ceremony sees Indian and Pakistani guards perform a high-kicking, flag-lowering ritual to roaring patriotic crowds.

Punjabi cuisine is a joy here, hearty and unapologetic. Sizzling tandoori dishes, buttery dal makhani, golden Amritsari fried fish and the legendary kulcha bread are best enjoyed in the bustling lanes of the old city, finished with a tall glass of sweet, frothy lassi.

We include Amritsar for travellers who want India at its most soulful and welcoming. It rewards an unhurried visit, ideally an overnight stay, allowing both the predawn quiet and the lamp-lit evening prayers at the Golden Temple, two unforgettable moments that bookend a day of remarkable warmth.